Snapshots of Sarajevo
One of those places where you come as a guest, leave as an acquaintance and return as a friend.
In the summer of 2019, we had the great fortune to spend three very memorable months in the culturally bountiful metropolis of Sarajevo. We had no idea what to expect from this legendary mecca with its complicated political history (and equally complicated political present), but it proved to be an unforgettable stay in one of Europe’s vastly overlooked capital cities.
We had rented the first floor of a two-story house on the steep hills of the residential neighborhood of Grbavica, hovering just above the serpentine Miljacka river and the city center. Residing above us were the owner’s adorable elderly parents who spoke not one word of English to our meager grasp of Bosnian. Their hospitality, however, was unhindered by the language barrier and on our second day, their grandson (who was staying with them for the summer and did speak English) rang our doorbell with a warm plate of homemade, freshly cooked chocolate crêpes for us from his grandparents. We asked him to thank them very sincerely and set about devouring our delectable breakfast.
Since we had rented the apartment for the next three months, we naturally felt obliged to return the kindness. So the following day, I set off to the supermarket at the foot of our hill to get all the ingredients necessary to make my signature gratin dauphinois for them. When we rang their doorbell at dusk the next evening with a large Pyrex dish of cheesy, creamy potato gratin, they seemed genuinely shocked and quite intrigued as I tried to explain what it was. They happily accepted it and the next day returned the empty Pyrex, all smiles, rubbing their stomachs to intimate they had thoroughly enjoyed the dish. A great start to our stay!
Our first day exploring Sarajevo began with a trip through the winding stone streets of Baščaršija, the city’s 15th-century Ottoman bazaar and historical center. Wandering these narrow old laneways past ancient inns, produce markets, merchants selling brass and copper džezva, hand-knotted Turkish rugs, rich musky incense and beautifully crafted jewelry, we were magically transported to another era. The pulse and energy of the Baščaršija is absolutely mesmerizing and no visit there is complete without a stop at the revered Morića Han. Originally built in 1551, this han (roadside inn) is a true caravanserai, which for centuries was capable of housing as many as 300 travelers and 70 horses. Now, one simply must make a stop to sit in the lush courtyard for a deliciously rich Turkish coffee, served with a mouth-watering morsel of lokum (otherwise known as a Turkish delight) and soak up the feeling of bygone times.
Invigorated from our morning coffee, we set off to explore the rest of the old city. We paused outside the divine Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque (built in 1530) to take in its historic beauty and listen to the beguiling call to prayer soaring across the bazaar. After a couple of hours roaming the charming streets of the Baščaršija beneath the unforgiving midday sun, it was time to seek the cool shade of an outdoor terrace and have some lunch. There was only one choice for lunch, the national dish of Bosnia - ćevapi. We chose one of Sarajevo’s most famous grill restaurants, Ćevabdžinica Željo, renowned for their soft warm somun stuffed with smokey ćevapi and creamy kaymak, served with a side of finely-diced, mild raw onions.
Over the course of our next few months in Sarajevo, we explored the city in depth and soon discovered a little courtyard oasis off Radićeva street, which quickly became one of our favorite haunts. We’d gone in search of Buybook, one of the city’s best bookstores, featuring a prominent selection of books in English. On the same tree-lined street, we found a spectacular wine bar next door called Dekanter. Books and wine?!? It was like they knew we were coming!
In the same courtyard was also an upscale restaurant called Dos Hermanos. Having scrutinized their phenomenal menu, which boasted a thoroughly impressive selection of dry-aged steaks and international wines, we vowed to return for dinner (which we did several weeks later for one of the best steaks we’ve ever eaten in our lives!).
After browsing the bookstore and imbibing some fantastic Bosnian wines at our new favorite wine bar, we happily headed home. Rounding the corner onto Obala Kulina bana, which runs along the bank of the Miljacka, we were delighted to come across a totally eclectic, very LGBTQ+ friendly little cafe/bar, Festina Lente, named after the nearby bridge. This completely charming bar (which sadly closed during the pandemic), was playfully decorated with unique Balkan tchotchkes and vintage kitsch, and instantly became our home away from home for the remainder of our stay in Sarajevo.
I would be utterly remiss if I didn’t include a description of our favorite restaurant in Sarajevo. There are an extraordinary amount of amazing dinner options in the city, but by far the one that lives up to its reputation is the famed Dveri. Does everyone go there who visits Sarajevo? Probably . . . but there’s a reason why. Any restaurant that looks like you’re dining in a verdant private garden and places a beautiful quote from a celebrated Bosnian author at the top of its menu immediately has our attention!
“A Restaurant whose scent already frees the guest of any doubt that he has brought his senses to the right place…One of those places where you come as a guest, leave as an acquaintance and return as a friend…” — from the novel Father of my Daughter by Nenad Veličković
Our dinner started with some scrumptious homemade cornbread and shopska salad, followed by an absolutely divine traditional goulash prepared with melt-in-your-mouth beefsteak, white wine, porcini mushrooms and plums served over handmade gnocchi. All of this we savored with a tremendous bottle of Bosnian white Žilavka made in the 16th-century cellar of the renowned Tvrdoš Monastery in the Trebinje region. It was, without a doubt, one of the most memorable dinners we’ve ever enjoyed in the Balkans.
We arrived in Sarajevo as guests and along the way we made many acquaintances, from our apartment owner’s gracious and hospitable family to our favorite queer-friendly bartender at Festina Lente to the chef who made our phenomenal meal at Dveri. Now, our only hope is that we may some day soon return to this enchanting city as friends.
I Love this story about Sarajevo. It still amazes me that you go into these worn torn areas and find your way around, sign leases make connections, knowing very little of the local language. I admire you both for that!
Great photos and really interesting to hear about a city most of us will never get the chance to visit! Sounds so interesting.